Jamie's Pawn Shop

This will be a guitar for my name-sake grandson. I had his mom have him pick a guitar photo off the internet and this is what he came up with. I call it the pawn shop because it reminds me of the shape and configuration of an old Japanese import you would find in a pawn shop. Should be a challenge!

First step, design in CAD.

Next step, design the carving in 3D using Rhino. This was an early program - I changed the carve some (See below).

Next, check the programming of the body cut in OpenSCAM.

Carve the neck, and put the truss rod in place.

Here's the finished board, ready for dot's and frets. I slotted it using my miter box.

I always do test cuts on throw-away wood. Here's the mock-up body and pickguard with the assembled real neck.

And here's the real body and pickguard.

Full mock-up. After I cut the test body I found that there wasn't room for the vibrato so I had to elongate the body slightly. That's why you make test cuts!

My lady, dressed in red!

Doing the fretting. Always use protection!

Fretting complete, tuners and string retainer installed. The problem with using foreign dots is that the colors don't match real well.

Getting ready to clear coat over the paint. I used Target waterborne laquer on my Tele and it worked great so I'm using it again. I use a strainig stand I got from Rockler to keep the clumps out, a tack rag to remove any residual dust or dust pain, and ALWAYS use a spray mask.

Once it's sprayed, I put it in a drying box for two hours before another coat goes on.

See you in two hours!

Ready for wet sanding and polishing. I start with standard 1000 grit paper, then use three progressions of micro-grit paper, 1200, 1500, and 1700. These have a sort of felt like backing and the writing can bleach out so I moark them with notches on the corner: No notch for 1200; one notch for 1500; two notches for 1700. Put a few drops of dish soap in the water to act as a lubricant.

Don't press too hard, just let the paper glide on the water and go over it well. Careful around the edges or you will rub off the finish (Don't ask me how I know this!). Don't take any short cuts! When you get to the last grit it will be like glass!

Next is the polishing step. Turtle brand anti-swirl is what I use, with a polishing cloth.

After that, I use a paste wax with another polishing cloth. Don't use the same cloth! It has grit from the polishing compound in it.

Now on to the wiring. I'm using a setup similar to a Fender Mustang, but without the capability to reverse the wiring.

And this is the finished wiring.

Check to make sure the ground wire gets to the bridge

It's always good to shield the control cavity with stick-back copper tape. Make sure it makes contact with the foil on the back of the pickguard.

Use the two E strings to align the bridge with the neck, and neck with the body.

Install the 'T' nuts. The adjustment set screws come through these and push on the back of the neck heel.

All buttoned up and adjustable!

In doing the setup, I couldn't get a shallow enough angle, so I counter-bored holes for the T-nuts to go into.

Glamour Shots!

Happy Birthday Jamie!

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